I am not always enamored of French cuisine or even the beloved brasserie aesthetic because they too easily lend themselves to a kind of snobbery that does not a good side dish with moules frites make. And mediocrity on either the French food or décor front is usually worse than mediocrity in any other gastronomic milieu. But, you can’t argue the contributions of the French to cooking as a whole, and their penchant for antique mirrors, brass fixtures and glowing streetlamp-like bulbs brought inside, make every complexion look dewy and every sip of Lillet more enticing so…I do succumb to le classics (besides, I own a very chic beret!) and I do have my favorites. Here are some to keep in mind:
this week: Belcourt
check it out before the reviews so you can decide for yourself
this season: Provence
gorgeous inside; an inventive take on some classic dishes; killer wine list
anytime you can get it: Balthazar
like George Clooney, somehow gets better with a little authentic patina
